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DIRECTORY
Accommodation
Vietnam has something for everyone - from dives to divine - and we cover them all. Most hotels in Vietnam quote price in a mix of Vietnamese dong and US dollars. In the provices the lower dong price is usually reserved for locals, while foreigner pay the higher dollar price.
When it comes to budget, we are talking about guesthouses or hotels where the majority of room cost less than US$ 20. These are usually family-run guesthouses, mini-hotels or, usually the least-appealing option, government-run guesthouses that time forgot. Budget rooms generally come well equipped for the money, so don't be serpried to find air-con, hot water and a TV for 10 bucks or less.
Moving on to midrange, we are referring to rooms in the US$ 20 to US$ 75 range, which buys some pretty tasty extras in Vietnam. At the lower end of this bracket, many of the hotels are similar to budget hotels but with bigger rooms or balconies. Flash a bit more cash and three-star touches are available, like access to a swimming pool and a hairdryer hidden away somewhere.
At the top end are a host of international standard hotels and resorts that charge from US$75 a room to US$ 750 A suite. Some of these are fairly faceless business hotels, while others ooze opulence or resonate with history. These are some real bargains when compared wiht the HongKong and Singapores of this world, so if you are fancy indulging yourself, Vietnam is a good place to do it. Most hotels at the top end levy a tax of 10% and a service charge of 5%, displayed as++('plus plus') on the bill.
Be aware that some budget and midrange hotels also apply the 10% tax. Check carefully before taking the room to avoid any unpleasant shocks on departure.
Accomodation options are limited in off-the-beaten track destinations in the far north and the central highlands. Usually there will just be a few guesthouses and basic hotels. However, in major town and along the coastal strip, there is now an excellent range of rooms, including some of the world's biggest names, like Sofitel and Six Senses.
Pick tourist demand for hotel rooms comes at Christmas and New Year, when prices may rise by as much as 25%. There is also a surge in many cities during Tet, when half of Vietnam is on the move. Try and make a reservation at these times so as not to get caught out. During quiet periods it is often possible to negotiate a discount, either by email in advance or over the counter on arrive, as there will now be a surplus of hotel beds in many destinations.
Passport are most always requested on arrival at a hotel. It is not absolutely essential to hand over your actual passport, but at the very least you need to hand over a photocopy of the passport details, visa and departure card.
Camping
Perhaps because so many Vietnamese spent much of the war years living in tents, as either soldiers or refugees, camping is not yet the popular pastime it is in the West.
Some innovative private travel agencies in Ho Chi Minh City ( HCMC) and Hanoi offer organised camping trips to national parks, plus camping out in beauty spots like HaLong Bay...
Travel Agencies in Hanoi
ODC Travel at Camellia Hotel 13 Luong Ngoc Quyen - Tel: +84.4 9280086
Handspan Adventure Travel - 80 Ma May St - Tel: +84.4 9260581
Travel Agencies in Ho Chi Minh
Guesthouses & Hotels
Many of the large hotel (khach san) and guesthouse (nha khach or nha nghi) are government - owned or joint ventures. There has also been a mushrooming of minihotels-small, smart private hotels that represent good value for money. The international hotel chains are now well represented in Hanoi and HCMC.
There is considerable confusion over the terms 'singles'. 'double occupancy' and "twins", so let's set the record straight here. A single contains one bed, even if two people sleep in it. If there are two beds in the room, that is a twin, even if only one person occupies it. If two people stay in the same room, that is double occupancy. In some hotels 'double' means twin beds, while in others it means double occupancy.
While many of the newer hotels has lifts, older hotels often don't and the cheapest rooms are at the end of several flights of stairs. It's a win - win situation: cheaper rooms, a bit of exercise and better views! Bear in mind that power outages are possible in some towns and this can mean 10 flights of stairs just to get to your room in a tall, skinny Saigon - style skyscraper.
Many hotels post a small sign warning guests not leave camera, passports and other valuables in the room. Most places have a safety deposit system of some kind, but if leaving cash (not recommended) on travellers cheques, be sure to seal the loot in an envelope and have it counted - signed by staff. However, many readers have been stung when leaving cash at cheaper hotels, so proceed with caution.
Homestays
Homestays are popular option in parts of Vietnam, but some local governments are more flexible than others about the concept. Homestays were pioneered in the Mekong Delta , where it has long been possible to stay with local families. At the opposite en of the map, there are also homestays on the island of Cat Ba .
Many people like stay with ethnic minority families in the far north of Vietnam. Mai Chau was the first place of offer the chance to stay with the hospitable White Thai families. Sapa is the number one sestination to meet the hill tribes in Vietnam and it is possible to undertake two - or three - days treks with an overnight in a H'mong or Dzao village. If you are serious about homestays throughout the north, consider contacting one of the travel agencies ot motorbike touring companies who can help organise things. Vietnam is not the sort of country where you can just drop- in an hope things work out, as there are strict rules about registering foreigners who stay overnight with a Vietnamese family.
Resorts
Resorts have really taken off in the last few years, particularly along the beautiful coastline. Top beach spots such as China Beach, Nha Trang and Mui Ne all have a range of sumptuous places for a spot of pampering. Up and coming destinations such as Phu Quoc Inland are fast catching up. There are also a number of ecoresorts in the mountains of the north and the far flung corners to Bai Tu Long Bay, a trend that look set to continous.
Activities
If you are looking for action, Vietnam can increasingly deliver. Biking and hiking are taking off up and down the country, while offshore there there is kayaking, and surfing above the water and diving and snorkelling beneath. If is all sounds like too much hard work, rent a motorbike and let the engine take the train.
Cycling
For distances near and far, cycling is an excellent way to experience Vietnam. A bicycle can be rented in most tourist centres from as little as US $1 a day.
The flatlands of the Mekong Delta region are an ideal place for a long - distance ride through the back roads. The entire coastal route along Hwy 1 is an alluring achievement, but the insane traffic makes it tough going and dangerous. A better option is the newer inland route, Hwy 14, also known as the Ho Chi Minh trail (not to be confused with the original wartime trail), which offers stunning scenery and little traffic.
North of the old Demilitarised Zone (DMZ), cycling is a bad idea in the winter months, particularly if heading from the south to the north, thanks to the massive mons«n winds, which blow from the north. There are some incredible, and incredibly challenging, rides through the Tonkinese Alps (Hoang Lien Mountains) of the north, but the opportunity to get up close and personal with the minority peoples of the region makes it more than worth the while.
For some laughs, as well the lowdown on cycling in Vietnam, visit the website www.mrpumpy.net.
Diving & Snorkelling
The most popular scuba - diving area in Vietnam is around Nha Trang. There are several reputable dive operators here, whose equipment and tra×ng is up to international standards. It is also possible to hire snorkelling gear and scuba equipment at several beach resorts along the coast, including Cua Dai Beach, Ca Na and China Beach . Phu Quoc Island has the potential to be the next big thing in underwater exploration and dive operators are stating to spread the word.
Golf
Mark twain once said that playing golf was a waste of good walk' and apparently Ho Chi Minh agreed with him. Times have changed and government officials often be seen fraternising on the faiways.
All over East Asia playing golf wins considerable points in the 'face game', even if you never hit a ball. For maximum snob value you need to join a country club, and in Vietnam memberships start at around US$10,000. Most golf clubs will allow you to pay a guest fee.
The best golf courses in Vietnam are located in Dalat an Phan Thiet , but there are also plenty of courses in and around Hanoi and HCMC.
For information about golf packege deals visit www.vietnamgolfresorts.com.
Kayaking
Kayaking has taken off around Halong Bay in the part few years, following in the footsteps of Krabi in Thailand. Several companies often kayaking itineraries around the majestic limestone pinnacles, including overnights on islands in the bay. Even the standard Halong Bay tours now include the option of kayaking through the karsts for those that want the experience without the effort.
Motobiking
Motobiking through Vietnam's 'deep north' is unforgettable. For those seeking true adventure there is no better way to go. If you are not confident riding a motobike, it's comparatively cheap to hire someone to drive it for you. 4 WD trips in the north are also highly recommended, though the mobility of two wheels is unrivalled. Motobikes can traverse trails that even the hardiest 4WD cannot follow. Just remember to watch the road when the scenery is sublime!
Rock Climbing
Well, it's still early days, but with the sheer range of limestone karsts found up and down the country, it is only a matter of time before the word gets out. For now, it is Halong Bay that is emerging as the premier spot, but in time Ninh Binh and Phong Nha could offer some competition.
Surfing, Kitesurfing & Windsurfing
Surfing and windsurfing have only recently arrived on the scene, but these are quickly caching on in popularity. The best place to practice these pursuits is at Mui Ne Beach, but experienced surfers, head for China Beach in Danang . Kite surfing is now one of Mui Ne's biggest draws for thrillseekers.
Trekking
Vietnam offers excellent trekking opportunities, notably in its growing array of national parks and nature reserves. There are ample opportunities to hike to minority villages in the northwest, northeast and central highlands regions. Anything is possible, from half-day hikes to an assault on Fansipan, Vietnam's highest mountain. The best base from which to arrage treks are Sapa , Bac Ha and Cat Ba, all in northern Viet Nam; Bach Ma National Park in central Vietnam; and Cat Tien and Yok Don National Parks in the sound. Tour operators Hanoi and HCMC offer a variety of programmes featuring hiking and trekking.
Bear in mind that it may be necessary to arrange special permits, especially if you plan to spens the night in remote mountain villages where are no hotels.
Vietnamese people rise early and consider sleeping in to be a sure indication of illness. Offices, museums and many shops open between 7am and 8am and close between 4pm and 5pm. Post offices keep longer hours and are generally open from 6.30am to 9pm. Banks are generally open from 8am to 11.30am and 1pm to 4pm during the week and 8am to 11.30am on Saturday.
Most government offices are open on Saturday until noon but are closed on Sunday. Most museums are closed on Monday while temples and pagodas are usually open every day from around 5am to 9pm.
Many of the small privately owned shops, restaurants and street stalls stay open seven days a week, often until late at night.
Lunch is taken very seriously and virtually everything shuts down between noon and 1.30pm. Government workers tend to take longer breaks, so figure on getting nothing done between 11.30am and 2pm.
Children get to have good time in Vietnam, mainly because of the overwhelming amount of attention they attract and the fact that almost everybody wants to play with them! However, this attention can sometimes be overwhelming, particularly for blond - haired, blue-eyes babes. Cheek pinching, or worse still (if rare), groin grabbing, are distinct possibilities, are distinct possibilities, so keep close. For the full picture on surviving and thriving on the road, check out Lonely Planet's Travel with Children by Cathy Lanigan, with a rundown on health precautions for kids and advice on travel during pregnancy.
Practicalities
When it comes to feeding and caring for babies, almost anything and everything is available in the major cities of Vietnam, but supplies dry up quickly in the countryside. Cot beds are available in international- standard midrange and top - end hotels, but not elsewhere. There are no safety seats in rented cars or taxi, but some Western restaurants can usually find a highchair when it comes to eating.
Breastfeeding in public is quite common in Vietnam, so there is no need to worry about crossing a cultural boundary. But there are few facilities for changing babies other than the usual bathroom. You'll need to pack a baby bag everywhere you go. For kiddies who are t« young to handle chopsticks, most restaurants also handle chopsticks, most restaurants also have cutlery.
Sights & Activities
There is plenty to do in big cities to keeps interested, though in most smaller town and rural areas you will probably encounter the boredom factor. The zoo, parks and some of the best ice - cream shops in the region are usually winners. Children visiting the south should not miss HCMC's water parks while Hanoi's two musts are the circus and a water- puppet performance .
Nature lovers with children can hike in one of Vietnam's expansive national parks or nature reserves. Cuc Phuong National Park is home to the excellent Endangered Primate Rescue Centre, where endangered species of monkeys are protected and bred. This is a great place to sª gibbons gallivanting about their safe houses and to learn about the plight of our furry friends.
With such a long coast, there are some great beaches for young children to enjoy, but pay close attention to any playtime in the sea, as there are some big riptides at many of the most popular beaches. Note that these rips are not marked by flags.
Language
There are Vietnamese language courses offered in HCMC, Hanoi and elsewhere. To qualify for student-visa status you need to enrol at a bona fide university, as opposed to a private language centre or with a tutor. Lesson usually last for two hours per day, and cost from US$3 (university) to US$ 10 (private) per hour.
It is important to decide on whether to study Vienamese in Hanoi or HCMC, as the northern and southern dialects are quite different. Many have been dismayed to discover that if they studied in one city they could not communicate clearly in the other.
Enter Vietnam by air the whole procedure only takes a few minutes. If you enter overland expect a bit more attention.
Duty free allowances are the standard 200 cigarettes and bottle of booze variety. Visitors can bring unlimited foreign currency into Vietnam, but large sums (US$7000 and greater) must be declared upon arrival.
Beggar Fatigue
Just as you're about to dig into the crump-tious Vietnamese meal you've ordered, you feel a tug on your shirt sleeve. This latest' annoyance' is a bony, eight-year- old boy holding his three - year- old sister in his arms. The little girl has a distended stomach and her hungry eyes are on your full plate.
This is the face of poverty. How do you deal with these situations? If you're like most of us, not very well. Taking the matter into your own hands by giving out money or gifts to people on the streets can cause more damage than good. The more people are given hand outs, the more reliant and attracted to life on the streets they become. When money is tight, people recognise that life on the streets is no longer so fruitful. This will hopefully discourage parents and 'pimps' forcing children and beggars onto the streets.
One way to contribute and help improve the situatation is to invest just a few hours to find out about local organisations that work with disadvantaged people; these groups are far more likely to make sure contributions are used in the most effectibe way possible to help those who need it.
However, if you want to so something on the spot, at least avoid giving money or anything that can be sold. The elderly and the young are easily controlled and are ideal begging tools. If you going to give something directly to a beggar, it's better to give f«d than money, take tem to a market or stall and buy them a nutritious meal or some fruit to be sure they are the only beneficiaries.
Noise
Remember Spinal Tap? The soundtrack of Vietnam is permanently cranked to 11! Not just any noise, but a whole lot of noise that just never seem to stop. At nigh there is most often a competing cacophony from motorbikes, discos, cafés, video arcades, karaoke lounger and restaurants; if your hotel is near any or all of these, it may be difficult to sleep.
Fortunately most noise subsides around 10pm or 11pm, a few places stay open much later than that. Unfortunately, however, Vietnameses are up and about from around 5am onwards. This not only means that traffic noise starts early, but not may be woken up by the crackle of loud speakers as the Voice of Vietnam cranks, into life at 5 am in small towns and villages. It's worth trying to get a room at the back of a hotel.
One last thing ... don't forget the earplugs!
Scams
Con artists and thieves always seeking new tricks to separate naive tourists from their money and becoming more savvy in their ways. We can't warn you about every in their ways. We can't warn you about every trick you might encounter, so maintain a healthy scepticism and be prepared to argue when unnecessary demands are made for your money.
Beware of a motorbike - rental scam that some travellers have encountered in HCMC. Rent a motorbike and the owner supplies an excellent lock, insisting you use it. What he doesn't tell you is that he has another key and that somebody will follow and "steal' the bike at the first opportunity. You then have to pay for a new bike, as per the signed contract.
More common is when your motorbike won't start you parked it in a "safe" area with a guard. But yes, the guard knows somebody who can repair your bike. The mechanic shows up and quickly reinstalls the parts they removed earlier and the bike works again. That will be US $ 10, lease.
Beware of massage boys who, after a price has been agreed upon, try to extort money from you afterwards by threatening to set the police on you (these threats are generally empty ones).
The most common scam most visitors encounter is the oldest in the book. The hotel of choice is 'close' or 'full', but the helpful taxi drive will take somewhere else. This has been several hotels with the same area. Book by telephone or email in advance and stop the scammers in their tracks.
Despite an array of scams, however, it is important to keep in mind the Vietnamese are not always out to get you. One concerning trend we're noticing in Vietnam, relative to neighbouring countries such as Cambodia and Laos, is a general lack of trust in the locals on the part of foreigners. Try to differentiate between who is good and bad and do not close yourself off to every person you encounter.
Sea Creatures
If you plan to spend your time swimming, snorkelling and scuba diving, familiarise yourself with the various hazards. The list of dangerous creatures that are found in seas off Vietnam is extensive and includes sharks, jellyfish, stonefish, scorpion fish, sea snakes and stingrays. However, there is little cause for alarm as most of these creatures avoid humans, or humans avoid them, so the number of people injured or killed is very small.
Jellyfish tend to travel in groups, so as long as you look before you leap into the sea, avoiding them should not be too hard. Stonefish, scorpion fish and stingrays tend to hang out in shallow water along the ocean floor and can be very difficult. One way to protect against thee nasties is to wear enclosed shoes in the sea.
Theft
The Vietnamese are convinced that their cities are full of criminals. Streets crime is common place in HCMC and Nha Trang, and on the rise in Ha Noi, so it doesn't hurt to keep the antennae up wherever you are.
HCMC is the place to really keep your wits about you. Don't have anything dangling from your body that you are not ready to part with, including bags and jewellery, which might tempt a robboer. Keep an eye out for drive by thieves on motorbikes - they specialise in snatching handbags and cameras from tour ists on foot and taking cyclos in the city.
Pickpocketing, which often involves kids, women with babies and newspaper vendors, is also a serious problem, especially in the tourist areas of HCMC. Many of the street kids, adorable as they may be, are very skilled at liberating people from their wallets.
Avoid putting things down while you're eating, or at leat take the precaution of fastening these items to your seat with a trap or chain. Remember, any luggage that you leave unattended for even a moment may grow legs and vanish.
There are also 'taxi girls" (sometimes transvestites) who approach Western men, give them a big hug, often more, and ask if they'd like 'a good time'. Then they suddenly change their mind and depart, along with a mobile phone and wallet.
We have also had reports of people being drugged and robbed on long - distance buses. It usually starts with a friendly passenger offering a free Coke, which turns out to be a chloral-hydrate cocktail. You wake up hours later to find your valuables and new - found 'friend' gone.
Despite all this, don't be overly paranoid. Although crime certainly exits and you need to be aware of it, theft in Vietnam does not seem to be any worse than what you'd expect anywhere else. Don't assume that everyone's a thief - most Vietnamese are poor, but honest.
Undetonated Explosives
For more than three decades four armies expended untold energy and resources mining, booby-trapping, rocketing, strafing, mortaring and bombarding stopped most it has landed or been laid; American estimates at the end of the war placed the quantity of unexploded ordnance at 150,000 tonnes.
Since 1975, more than 40,000 Vietnamese have been maimed or killed by this leftover ordnance. While cities, cultivated areas and well-travelled rural roads and paths are safe for travel, straying from these areas could land you in the middle of the minefield that is completely unmarked.
Never touch any rockets, artillery shells, mortars, mines or other relics of war you may come across. Such objects can remain lethal for decades. And don't climb inside bomb craters - you never know what un - detonated explosive device is at the bottom.
You can learn more about the issue of landmines from the Nobel Peace Prize - winning International Campaign to Ban Landmines (ICBL; www.icbl.org)
Senior Cards
There are no 'senior citizen" discounts for pensioners, as all foreigners who can afford to fly to Vietnam are considered rich enough to pay the full whack.
Student & Youth Cards
Ditto for student cards. Carry one if you are travelling through the region, but it will gather dust in you wallet while you are in Vietnam.
Embassies & Consulates in Vietnam
With the exception of those for Cambodia, China and Laos, Hanoi's embassies and HCMC's consulates do very little visa business for non-Vietnamese.
It is important to realise what you country's embassy can and can't do to help if you get into trouble. Generally speaking, if won't be much help if the trouble you're in is remotely your own fault. Remember that you are bound by the law of the country you are in. Your embassy won't be sympathetic if you end up in jail after committing a crime, even if such actions are legal in your own country.
In genuine emergencies you might get some assistance, but only if other channels have been exhausted. If you have all your money and documents stolen, it might assist with getting a new passport, but a loan for onward travel is out of the question.
The following are some of the embassies and consulates found in Vietnam.
Major religious festival in Vietnam have lunar dates; check against any Vietnamese calendar for the Gregorian dates. If you know when Tet kicks off, simply count from there.
Special prayers are held at Vietnamese and Chinese pagodas when the moon is full or a thin sliver. Many Buddhists eat only vegetarian foot on these days, which, according to the Chinese lunar calendar, fall on the 14th and 15th days of the month and from the last day of the month to the first day of the next month.
Vietnam is relatively hassle - free place for homosexuals. There are no official laws on same - sex relationships in Vietnam, not much in the way of individual harassment.
That said, the government is notorious for clamping down on gay venues, and places that are covered in the mass media are 'coincidentally' closed down days later. Most gay venues keep a fairly low profile. There is, however, a healthy gay scence in Hanoi an HCMC, evidenced by unabashed cruising around certain lakes in Hanoi (p116) and the thriving café scene in HCMC (p369).
Homosexuality is still far from acepted in the winder community though the lack of any laws keeps things fairly safe. Major headlines were made in 1997 with Vietnam's first gay marriage, and again in 1998 at the country's first lesbian wedding, in the Mekong Delta. However, displaying peculiar double standards, two weeks late government officials broke up the marriage of the women and the couple signed an agreement promising not to live together again.
With the vast number of same- sex travel partners - gay or otherwise - checking hotels throughout Vietnam, there is little scrutiny over how travelling foreigners are related. However, it would be prudent not to flaunt your sexuality. As with heterosexual couple, passionate pinlic displays of affection are considered a basic no - no.
Utopia (www.utopia-asia.com) features gay travel information and contacts, including detailed sections on the legality of homosexuality in Vietnam and some local gay terminology.
Politics affects everything, including public holiaday. After 15 - year lapse, religious holidays were re-established in 1990. The following are public holidays in Vietnam :
New Year's Day (Tet Duong Lich) 1 January
Aniversary of the Founding of the Vietnamese Commununist Party (Thanh Lap Dang CSVN) 3 February - the date the party was founed in 1930.
Liberation Day (Saigon Giai Phong) 30 April - the date on which Saigon surrendered is commemorated nationwide as Liberation Day.
International Worker's Day (Quoc Te Lao Dong) 1 May.
Ho Chi Minh's Birthday (Sinh Nhat Bac Ho) 19 May.
Buddha' Birthday (Phat Dan) Eighth day of the fourth moon (usually June)
National Day (Quoc Khanh) 2 September - commemorates the Declaration of Independence by Ho Chi Minh in 1945.
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Insurance
Insurance is a must for Vietnam, as the cost of major medical treatment is prohibitive. Although you may have medical insurance in your own country, it is probably not valid while you are in Vietnam. Atravel inssurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is the best bet.
There is a wide variety of policies available, so check the small print. Some insurance policies specifically exclude such 'dangerous activities' as riding motorbikes, diving and even trekking. Check that the policy covers an emergency evacuation in the event of serious injury.
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Today the internet is widely available throughout town and cities in Vietnam. There is everything from trendy cybercafés to computer terminals in the lobbies of hotels and guesthouses, plus public internet access in many Vietnamese post offices. Many of the budget and midrange hotels in major cities offer free internet in the lobby. Some even offer free access in the room for those travelling with a laptop.
The cost of internet access gennerally ranges from 3000d to 20,000 per hour, depending on where you are and what the competition is like. Printing usually costs around 1000d per page and scanning about 2000d a page.
Wi-fi access is spreading fast. Hanoi, HCMC and other big towns have plenty of café and bars offering free access. Many of the leading hotels also offer wi-fi, but in keeping with the five-star tradition, it is not a free service.
For laptop travellers with older machines, check out the prepaid internet - access cards that can provide you with nationwide dial up to the the net. FPT is one of Vietnam's largest ISPs, and its internet card is sold in most cities.
Remember that the power supply voltage will vary from that at home. The best investment is a universal AC adapter, which will enable you to plug it in anywhere without frying the innards of your equipment. For more information on travelling with portable computer, see www.teleadapt.com.
It is easy to get your laundry done at guesthouses and cheaper hotels for just a few US dollars. There have, however, been a number of reports of gross overcharging at certain hotels, so make sure you check the price beforehand.
Budget hotels do not have clothes dryers, as they rely on the sundhine - so allow at least a day and a half for washing and drying, especially during the wet season. You can also elect to wash your own clothes as washing powder is cheap and readily available.
Civil Law
On paper it looks good, but in practice the rule of law in Vietnam is a fickle beast. Local officials interpret the law any way it suits them, often against the wishes of Hanoi. There is no independent judiciary. Not surprisingly, most legal disputes are settled out of court. In general, you can accomplish more with a carton of cigarettes and a bottle of g«d cognac than you can with a lawyer.
Drugs
The drug trade has made a comeback in Vietnam. The country has a very serious problem with heroin these days and the authorities are clamping down hard.
Marijuana and, in the northwest, opium are readily available, but giving in to this temptation is a risk. There are many plain - closes police in Vietnam and, if arrested, the result might be a large fine and/ or a long prison term.
Most bookshops in Vietnam stock a good range of maps. A must for its detailed road maps of every province is the Viet Nam Administrave Atlas, published by Ban Do. It is perfect for cyclists or motorbikers looking for roads less travelled and costs 68,000d in softback.
Ban Do also publishes reasonable tourist maps of HCMC, Hanoi, Danang, Hué and a few other cities. Unfortunately, maps of smaller towns are practically nonexistent. Most of the listings maps of Hanoi and HCMC, and there are some good hand-drawn 3D maps of Hanoi, Hué and Sapa available from Covit, a local publisher.
Vietnamese street name are preceded with the words Pho, Duong an Dai Lo - on the maps and in the text in this book, they appear respectively as P, Đ and ĐL.
The first currency of Vietnam is the dong, which is abbreviated to 'd'. Banknotes come in denominations 500d, 1000d, 2000d, 5000d, 10,000d, 20,000d, 50,000d, 100,000d, 200,000d and 500,000d. Now that Ho Chi Minh has been canonised (against his wishes), his picture is on every banknote. Coins are also in circulation, although they are more common in the citues, including 500d, 100d and 5000d. The second currency is the US dollar and that needs no introduction.
The dong has experienced its ups and downs. The late 1990s Asian economic crisis, which wreaked severe havoc on the regional currenciex, caused the dong to lose about 15% of its US- dollar value. SAInce then the dong has stabilised at around 16,000 to the US dollar.
Where prices are quoted in dong, we quote them in this b«k in dong. Likewise, when prices are quoted in dollars, we follow suit. While this may seem inconsistent, this is the way it's done in Vietnam and the sooner you get used to thinking comparatively in dong and dollars, the easier your travels will be.
ATMs
It used to be just a couple of foreign banks in Hanoi and HCMC that offered ATMs, but Vietnamese banks have now got into this game in a big way. Vietcombank has the best network in the country, including most of the major tourist destinations and all the big cities. Every branch stocks a useful leaflet with a list of their nationwide ATMs. Withdrawals are issued in dong, and there is a single withdrawal limit of 2,000,000 (about US$125). However, you can do multiple withdrawals until you hit your own account limit. ANZ offers 4,000,000 withdrawals per transaction. Most banks charge 20,000 per transaction. Cash advances for large amounts of dong, as well as US dollars, can be arranged over the counter during office hours.
Black Market
The black Market is Vietnam's unofficial banking system that is almost everywhere and operates quite openly. Private individuals and some shops and restaurants will exchange US dollars for dong and vice versa. While the practice is technically illegal, law enforcement is virtually nonexistent. Ironically, black market exchange rates are usually worse than the official exchange rates, so the only advantage is the convenience of changing money when and where you like.
If people approach you on the street with offers to change money at rates better than the official one, you can rest assured that you are being set up for a rip - off. Fake notes or too few notes, they will get you somehow. Don't even think about trying it! Remember, if an offer seem too good to be true, that because it probably is.
Cash
Most major currencies can be exchanged at leading banks in Vietnam, but away from the tourist centres the US dollar remains king. Vietcombank is the most organised of the local banks for changing cash and can deal with euros, pounds and pretty much anything else you are packing. The US dollar exchange rate worsens the further you get from the tourist trail, so stock up on dong if you are heading into remote areas. In small towns it can be difficult to get change for the large notes, so keep a stack of smaller bills handy. Changing US$100 will make you an instant millionaire!
It's good idea to check that any big dollar bill you take do not have any small tears of look too tatty, as no - one will want to touch them in Vietnam.
You cannot legally take the dong out of Vietnam but you can reconvert reasonable amounts of it into US dollars on the departure.
Credit Cards
Visa, MasterCard and JCB cards are now widely acceptable in all major cities and many tourist centres. However, a 3% commission charge on every transaction is pretty common; check first, as some charge higher commissions than others. Some merchants also accept. Amex, but the surcharge is typically 4%. Better hotels and restaurants do not usually slap on an additional charge.
Getting a cash advance from Visa, Master Card and JCB is possible at Vietcombank in most cities, as well as at some foreign banks in HCMC and Hanoi. Banks generally charge a 3% commission for this service. This is handy if you want to get out large sums, as the ATMs have low daily limits.
Tipping
Tipping is not expected in Vietnam, but it is enormously appreciated. For a person who earns US $ 100 per month, a US 1 tip is significant. Up market hotels and some restaurants may levy a 5% service charge, but this may not make it to the staff. If you stay a couple of days in the same hotel, try and remember to tip the staff who clean your room.
You should also consider tipping drives and guides - after all, the time they spend on the road with you means time away from home and family. Typically, travellers on minibus tours will pool together to collect a communal tip to be slit between the guide and driver.
It is considered proper to make a small donation at the end of a visit to a pagoda, especially if a monk has shown you around; most pagodas have contribution boxes for this purpose.
Travellers Cheques
It is wise not to rely entirely on travellers cheques by keeping a reasonable stast US dollars to hand. Travellers cheques can only be exchanged at authorised foreign - exchange banks, but these aren't found throughout Vietnam. Strangely, there are no banks at most of the land border crossings. The only way to change money at these places is on the black market.
If you only have travellers cheques, stock up on US dollars at a bank, which will usually charge anywhere from 0,5% to 2% commission to change them into cash. Vietcombank charges no commission for exchanging Amex trallers cheques; a reasonalble 0,5% for other types.
If your travellers cheques are in curencies other than US dollars, they may be useless beyond the major cities. Hefty commissions are the norm if they can be exchanged at all.
Memory cards are pretty cheap in Vietnam, pretty fortunate given the visual feast awaiting even the amateur photographer. Most internet cafés can also burn photos on to a CD or DVD to free up storage space. It's worthwhile bringing the attachment for viewing your files on televisions, as many hotels come quipped with televisions.
Colour print film is widely available and prices are pretty reasonable at about US 2.50 for a roll of 36 print film. Slide film can be bought in Hanoi and HCMC, but don't count on it elsewhere. Supplies of black - and - white film are rapidly disappearing, so bring your own.
Photo-processing shops are located all over Vietnam and developing costs are about US$4 per roll depending on the print size selected. The quality is generally very good. Processing slide film is best saved for somewhere else. Printing digital shots is pretty cheap and works out at bettween 1000d and 2000d a photo.
Cameras are reasonable price in Vietnam but the selection is limited. All other camera supplies are readily accessible in major towns, but soon dry up in remote areas.
The Vietnamese police usually don't care what you photograph, but on occasion they get pernickety. Obviously, don't photograph sensitive sites such as airports and border checkpoints. Don't even think of trying to get a snapshot of Ho Chi Minh in his glass sarcophagus!
Photographing anyone, particularly hill-tribe people, demands patience and the utmost respect for local custom . Photograph with discretion and manners. It's always polite to ask first and if the person says no, don't take the photo. If you promise to send a copy of the photo, make sure you do.
Every city, town, village and rural subdistrict in Vietnam has some of post office (buu dien). Post offices all over the country keep long hours, from about 6.30 to 9pm including weekends and public holidays (even Tet)
Vietnam has a pretty reliable post service these days. Gone are days of your stamps being steamed off and your postcards being delivered to the rubbish bin. International postal rates are similar to those in European countries. Postcards cost from 7000d to 10,000d depending on the destination.
Items mailed from anywhere other than large towns and cities might take a month to arrive at their international destination. Airmail service from HCMC and Hanoi takes appoximately five to most Western countries. Express-mail service (EMS), available in the larger cities, is twice as fast as regular airmail and everything is registered.
Private couriers such as FedEx, DHL and UPS are reliable for transporting small parcels or documnets.
Poste restante works well in post offices in Hanoi and HCMC. Foreigners must pay a small service charge for each letter received through the poste restance.
Receiving even a small package from abroaf can cause a headche and large ones will produce a migraine. If the parcel contains b«ks, documents, Cds, DVDs or dangerous goods it's possible that a lengthy inspection will be required, which could take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks.
Shopping
Vietnam has some fantastic shopping opportunities so it is well worth setting aside half a day or more to properly peruse. Hotspots include Hanoi, Hoi An and HCMC, each of which has a tempting selection of everything from from avant- garde art to sumptuous silk suits. Some of the best buys on the block include gorgeous glazed pottery, classic lanterns, 'almost' antiques, embroidered tablecloths, fine furnishings, and lavish silk and linen creations in designer boutiques.
Art & Antiques
There are several good shop to hunt for art and antiques, but Vietnam has strict regulations on the export of real antiques, so be sure the items are allowed out of the country. Most reputable shops can provide the necessary paperwork.
Both traditional and modern paintings are a popular item. Cheaper mass-produced stuff is touted in souvenir shops and by street vendors. More sophisticated works are displayed in art galleries, with painting from US$50 to US$500, but some of the hottest Vietnamese artists now fetch up to 10 times that. It's important to know that there are forgeries around - just because you spot a painting by a 'famous Vietnamese artist' does not mean that it's an original.
A Vietnamese speciality is the 'instant antique', such as teapot or ceramic dinner plate, with a price tag of around US$2. Of course, it's OK to buy fake an antiques as long as you aren't paying genuine prices.
Clothing
Forget the rubber sandals and pith helmets, Vietnamese is emerging as a regional design centre and there are some extravagant creations in the boutiques of Hanoi and HCMC. Beautiful silk dresses cost a fraction of what they would at home, and men can get in on the action with some flamboyant shirts of sharp suits.
Ao dai (ow - zai in the north, ow - yai in the south) is the national dress for Vietnamese women and is a popular item to take home. Ready - made Ao dai cost from US415 to US$30, but custom numbers can cost a lot more but may be required due to sizing differentiation. There are ao dai tailors nationwide, but those in the tourist centres are more familiar with foreigners.
There days more and more hill - tribe gear in winding its way to shop in Hanoi and HCMC. It is brightly patterned stuff, but you may need to set the dyes yourself (try to soak the clothes in some salty water overnight) so those colours don't bleed all over the rest of you clothes. Alternatively, put it in a plastic bag and wait until you get home.
Women all over the country wear conical hats to keep the sun off their faces, though they also function as umbrellas in the rain. The best-quality conical hats produced in the Hué area.
T- shirts are ever popular items with travellers. A printed shirt starts from 20,000d while an embroidered design will cost about 50,000d.
Handicrafts
Hot items on the tourist market include lacquerware, boxes and w«den screens with mother-of-pearl inlay, ceramic (check out the elephants) colourful embroidery, silk greeting cards, wood-block prints, oil paintings, watercolours, blinds made of hanging bamboo beads, read mats, carpets, jewellery and leatherwork.
War Souvenirs
In places frequented by tourists, it's easy to buy what looks likes equipment left over from the American War. However, almost all of these items are reproductions and your chances of finding anything original are slim.
The fake Zippo lighters engraved with platoon philosophy are still one of the hottest-selling items. You can pay extra to get one that's been beat up to look like a war relic, or just buy a brand-new shiny one for less.
Bargaining
Some bargaining is essential in most tourist transactions. Remember that in Asia 'saving face" is important, so bargaining should be good-natured. Smile and don't get angry or argue. In some cases you will be able to get a 50% discount or more, at other times this may only be 10%. And once the money is accepted, the deal is done. Don't waste time getting stressed if you find out someone else got it for less, it is about paying the price that is right for you, not always the 'right' price.
For the all - important numbers like emergency services and the international access code, check out the Quick Reference section on the inside cover of this book.
Every city has a general information service ((1080) that provides everything from phone numbers and train and air timetables to exchange rates and the latest football scores. It even provides marriage counselling or bedtime lullabies for your child - no kidding! You can usually be connected to an operator who speaks English or French.
Domestic Calls
Phone numbers in Hanoi, HCMC and Haiphong have seven digits. Elsewhere around the country phone numbers have six digits. Telephone area codes are assigned according to the province.
Local calls can usually be made from any hotel or restaurant phone and are often free. Confirm this with the hotel so you don't receive any uppleasant surprises when you check out. Domestic long-distance calls are reasonably priced and cheaper if you dial direct. Save up to 20% by calling between 10pm and 5am.
International Calls
Charges for international calls from Vietnam have dropped significantly in the past few years. With the introduction of Voice Over Internet Protocol (VOIP), international phone calls to most countries cost a flat rate of just US$0.50 per minute. The service is easy to use from any phone in country; just dial (17100, the country code and the number.
International and domestic long-distance calls can be made at hotels, but it's expensive at the smarter places. However, many of the cheaper hotels and guesthouses now operate VOIP services which are very cheap. Another option is to make these calls from the post office, which have handy displays telling you the cost of the call.
Reverse charges or collect calls are possible to most, but not all, Western countries including Australia, Canada, France, Japan, New Zealand, the UK and USA.
Mobile (Celluar) Phones
Vietnam is putting a lot of money into its cellular network. Vietnam uses GMS 900/1800, which is compatible with most Asia, Europe and Australia but not with North America.
If your phone has roaming, it is easy enough, if expensive, to make calls in Vietnam. Another option is to buy a SIM card with a local number to use in Vietnam.
There are at least six mobile phone companies battling it out in the local market with gimmicks galore to attract new customers. All these companies have offices and branches nationwide.
Be aware that mobile-phone numbers in Vietnam start with the prefix ( 09 and cost more to call than a local number.
Fax
Most post offices and hotels offer fax service. Hotels charge considerably more than the post office.
Vietnam is seven hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time/Universal Time Coordinated (GMT/UTC). Because of its proximity to the equator, Vietnam does not have daylight-saving or summer time. When it's noon in Vietnam it is 9pm the previous day in Vancouver, midnight in New York, 5am in London and 3pm in Sydney.
The issue of toilets and what to do with used toilet paper causes some concern. In general, if there's a wastepaper basket next to the toilet, that is where the toilet paper goes, as many sewage systems cannot handle toilet paper.
Toilet paper is seldom provided in the toilets at bus and train stations or in other public buildings. You'd be wise to keep a stash of your own with you at all times while on the move.
Another thing to be mentally prepared for is squat toilets. For the uninitiated, a squat toilet has no seat for you to sit on while reading this guidebook; it's a hole in floor. The only way to flush it is to fill the conveniently placed bucket with water and pour it into the hole. Most hotels will have Western - style loos, but squats are the norm in older hotels and public places.
The scarcity of public toilets is more of problem for women than for men. Vietnamese men often urinate in public. Women might find road - side toilet stops easier if wearing a sarong.
Tourist office in Vietnam have a different philosophy from the majority of tourist offices worldwide. These government - owned enterprises are really travel agencies whose primary interests are booking tours and turning a profit. Don't come here hoping for freebies.
Vietnam Tourism and Saigon Tourist are old examples of this genre, but nowadays every province has at least one such organisation. Travel cafés, budget agencies and you fellow travellers are a much better source of information than any of the so-called 'tourist office'.
Travellers with disabilities
Vietnam is not the easiest of places for disabled travellers, despite the fact that many Vietnamese are disabled as a result of war injuries. Tactical problems include the chaotic traffic, a lack of pedestrian footpaths, a lack of lifts in smaller hotels and the ubiquitous squat toilets.
That said, with some careful planning it is possible to have a relatively stress - free trip to Vietnam. Find a reliable company to make the travel arrangements and don't be afraid to double - check things with hotels and restaurants yourself. In the major cities many hotels have lifts and disabled access is improving. Bus and train travel is not really geared up for disabled travelles, but rent a private vehicle with a driver and almost anywhere becomes instantly accessible. As long as you are not too proud about how you get in and out of a boat or up some stairs, anything is possible, as the Vietnamese are always willing to help.
You might try contacting the following organisations :
Accessible Journey ((610-521 0339; www.disability travel.com)
Mobility International USA ((54 -1343 1284; www.miusa.org)
Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation (Radar; ( 020-7250 3222; www.radar.org.uk)
Society for Accessible Travel & Hopitality (SATH' (212-447 7284; www.sath.org)
Tourist visas allow visitors to enter and exit Vietnam at Hanoi, HCMC and Danang airports or at any of its twelve land borders, three each with Cambodia and China, and six with Laos.
Tourist visas are valid for single 30-day stay. The government often talks about issuing visas on arrival to certain favoured nationalities, but as yet this sensible scheme has failed to materialise. Arranging the papwr-work for Vietnamese visa has become fairly straightforward, but is remains expensive and unnecessarily time-consuming. Processing a tourist - visa application typically takes four or five working days in countries in the West.
It is possible to arrange a visa on arrival through a Vietnamese travel agent. They will need passport details in advance and will send a confirmation for the visa to be issued at your airport of arrival.
In Asia the best place to pick up a Vietnamese visa is Cambodia, where it costs around US$30 and can be arranged the same day. Bangkok is also a popular place as many agents offer cheap packages with an air ticket and visa thrown in.
If you plan to send more than a month in Vietnam, or if you plan to exit Vietnam and enter again from Cambodia or Laos, arrange a three - month multiple-entry visa. These cost around US$95 in Cambodia, but are not available from all Vietnamese embassies.
In our experience personal appearance influences the reception you receive from airport immigration - if you wear shorts or scruffy clothing, look dirty or unshaven, you can expect problems. Try your best to look 'respectable'.
Business Visas
Business Visas are usually valid for three or six months, allow multiple entries and the right to work. Getting a business visa has now become cheap and easy, although prices are about double those of a tourist visa. It is generally easier to apply for a business visa once in Vietnam, after having arrived on a tourist visa.
Student visas
A student visas is usually arranged after your arrival. It's acªptable to enter Vietnam on a tourist visa, enrol in a Vietnamese langguage course and then apply at the immigration police for a change in status. In reality, the easiest way to do it is to contact a travel company and have them help you make the application.
Visa Extensions
If you've got the dollars, they've got the rubber stamp. Tourist-visa extensions cost as little US$10, but it is easier to pay more and sort this out through a travel agency. Getting the stamp yourself can be a bureaucratic nightmare. The procedure takes two or thrª days and you can only extend one time for 30 day.
In theory you should be able to extend your visa in any provincial capital. In practice it goes smoothest in major cities, such as HCMC, Hanoi, Danang and Hué, which cater to mass tourism.
Re-Entry Visas
It's possible to enter Cambodia, Laos or any other country from Vietnam and then reenter without having to apply for another visa. However, you must apply for a re-entry visa before you leave Vietnam. If you do not have a re-entry visa, you will have to go through the whole Vietnamese visa nonsense again.
Re -entry visas are easiest to arrange in Hanoi or HCMC, but on will almost certainly have to ask a travel agent to do the paperwork for you. Travel agents charge about US$25 for this service and can complete the procedure in a day or two.
There are fewer opportunities for volunteering than one might imagine in a country such as Vietnam. This is partly due to the sheer number of professional development workers base here, and the fact that development is a pretty lucrative industry these days.
For information on volunteer work opportunities, chase up the full of non-government organisations (NGOs) at the NGO Resource Centre ((04-832 8570; www.ngocentre.org.vn; Hotel La Thanh, 218 Pho Doi Can, Hanoi), which keeps a database of all of the NGOs assisting Vietnam.
Try contacting the following organisations if you want help in some way :
15 May School (www.15mayschool.org) A school in HCMC for disadvantaged children, which provides free education and vocational training.
Stress Voice (www.stretvoices.com.au) Donate your skills, time or money to help give street children career opportunities. Street Voices' primary project is KOTO Restaurant (p111); check its website to see what you can do to help in Vietnam or Australia.
The other avenue is professional volunteering through an organisation back home that offers one-or two-year placements in Cambodie. One of the largest in Voluntary Service Overseas (V.SO;www.vso,org.uk) in the UK, but other countries have their own organisations, including Australian Volunteers International (AVI; www.australianvolunteeer.com) and Volunteer Service Abroad (VSA;www.vsa.org.nz). The UV also operates it own volunteer programme; details are available at www.unv.org. Other general volunteer sister with links all over the place include www.worldvonteerweb.com, www.volunteer abroad.com and www.idealist.org.
Like Thailan and other predominantly Buddist countries, Vietnam is relatively free of seriour hassles for Western women. But it is a different story for some Asian women, particularly those who are young. It's not uncommon for an Asian woman accompanied by a Western male to be stereotyped as a Vietnamese prostitute. The fact that the couple could be married, of friends, doesn't seem to occur to everyone, or that the woman may not be Vietnamese at all. Asian women travelling in Vietnam with a Western male copanion have occasionally reported verbal abuse.
However, there's no need to be overly paranoid, as locals are becoming more accustomed to seeing Asian woman. Things have improved as more Vietnamese people are exposed to foreign visitor.
Sanitary napkins are available in large cities, though tampons are harder to find.
Vietnam's opening up to capitalist countries has suddenly created all sorts of work opportunities for Westerners. The best-paid Westerners living in Vietnam are those working for international organisations or foreign companies, but most of there jobs are secured before arrived in the country.
Foreigners who look like Rambo have occasionally been approached by Vietnamese talent scouts wanting to recruit them to work as extras in war movies, but for most travellers the main work opportunities are teaching a foreign language.
English is by far the most popular foreign language with Vietnamese students, but some students also wants to learn French. There is also a limited demand for teachers of Japanese, German, Spanish and Korean.
Government-run universities in Vietnam hire some foreign teachers. Pay is generally around US$5 to US$10 per hour, but benefits such as free housing and unlimited visa renewals are usually thrown in.
There is also a budding free market in private language centres and home tutoring; this is where most newly arrived foreigners seek work. Pay in the private sector is slightly better, at about US$6 to US$15 per hour, but these private schools won't offer the same extras as a government-run school. Private tutoring usually pays even better, at around US$10 to US per hour.
Finding teaching jobs is quite easy in places such as HCMC and Hanoi, and is sometimes possible in towns that have universities. Pay in the smaller towns tends to be lower and work opportunities fewer.
Looking for employment is a matter of asking around - jobs are rarely advertised. The longer you stay, the easier it is to find work-travellers hoping to land a quick job and depart tow months later will be disappointed. Check out the website www.livinginvietnam.com for job opportunities.
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